Wednesday, July 30, 2008

Le Pont de la Tour, London SE1






When you hook up with an American husband you quickly become a tourist in your own town. I've seen more of London in the past six years than I ever did during the time I worked there and you know what? There's a certain pleasure to be had looking through different eyes at monuments and attractions that you walked past daily without a second glance. One of our favorite spots to wander in the City is Tower Bridge and there's no better vantage point to linger over lunch and take in the view than Le Pont de la Tour restaurant at Butler's Wharf.


Le Pont was one of the first foodie empires to spring up when Canary Wharf and the whole Docklands area started emerging. The company I worked for back then was one of the first to relocate from the West End to Docklands and Le Pont was always packed to capacity with Investment Banking types and Brokers with their clicking brogues and Hermes ties. Whilst those days appear to have gone; miraculously the Pont has remained, if under different ownership.
There's a choice of eating venues; the high end restaurant (strictly business, romance or a bit of both), the brasserie and the chop house all conjoined. We went to our favorite and the best option with kids, the Brasserie. They offer a set lunch at £13.50 for two courses or a la carte. Dr. Dave went with the set option and had some 'honey roast ham, cheddar cheese & walnuts' (sounds like a pub platter to me) and complained that it had an unmentioned mayonnaise style sauce on it that tasted of fish, followed by a goat's cheese quiche which was quite delicious. I had a smoked mackerel salad which was OK, a few bones in it which was a shame - not too attractive sitting there pulling fishbones from your teeth at the table; followed by a salmon in a light dill sauce. The salmon was cooked well but as you can see from the photo it wasn't the best of quality being cut way too close to the skin with that brown fatty piece on show. I wouldn't expect to buy a piece like this from the supermarket, never mind be served it at a restaurant. Anyhow, what was edible was fine.


They have a children's menu from which Mimi had some chicken goujons; she had a nibble at them but much preferred the bread! The service was selective. I had the distinct impression that the servers identified the business clientele and dealt with them at speed and identified the tourist element and dealt with them accordingly.


Ultimately this is a place to loiter and absorb the unparalleled views of Tower Bridge; choose a simple dish and enjoy the fact that its still a better deal than a cafe creme within spitting distance of the Eiffel Tower.


Saturday, July 26, 2008

Indian Takeout, UK Style




This meal has been a long time coming. One needs to prepare oneself carefully for the gut busting, heartburning, tongue searing experience of the Great British Indian Takeaway. We've been on these shores for almost three weeks and its taken us this long to get our stomachs set in preparation for the spicy onslaught. This is no faint fragrant affair; no delicately seasoned cuts in light glazes or jus. Its a full on Ruby Murray (check your cockney rhyming slang dictionaries) and once in a while, you've got to get a hit.


When I was dating Dr. Dave I opened his eyes (and sinuses) to the joys of Indian Cuisine. He's a cautious eater by nature but even he will tell you to try the 'red and the yellow'. He can't recall names or spices but colors he's good with. The red is a tandoori chicken appetizer, beautiful spiced cubes of chicken cooked in a roasting hot tandoor oven to get it charred on the outside and juicy within. The yellow is 'korma' a creamy mix of almonds, turmeric & yogurt. We were eating with my brother and his wife and my Dad so we had a good excuse to order BIG. A lamb bhuna, a chicken dopiaza, chicken tikka masala (Britain's national dish!) and my personal favorite a saag aloo (slow cooked spinach & potato) and cauliflower bhaji. All this is mopped up with a fluffy naan bread; one plain one 'keema' (stuffed with meat). Stuffed is what you'll be after noshing down this lot. This is why we keep this treat to a once yearly affair. Between the heat, the spice and the intensity of flavor its not something you want every week although there will be some that disagree.
This vast and colorful array of food comes at a cost (not only to the waistline), $90 to be exact. Even Pops, who's always quick with the wallet had to ask twice "How much? 45 quid? Where's it coming from, Bombay?". Yep, and that's another reason to keep this to an annual event but that's credit crunch Britain for ya....

Thursday, July 24, 2008

The Bell Inn, Castle Hedingham, Essex






A visit to a 12th century castle wouldn't be complete without a visit to a 16th century pub for lunch. Castle Hedingham is a picture postcard town in Essex; all flowers and beams and narrow winding streets. The Bell Inn blends seamlessly into the postcard. Its a warren of timbered rooms and bars with rustic fireplaces and solid wood floors.



The menu is simple and to the point. Pies, fishcakes, Ploughmans etc., all the basics are covered. They trumpet their pie and fish suppliers along with locally sourced free range produce. Although this is the current trend and everyman and their dog are on the 'seasonal, local' bandwagon, I get the impression that the Bell Inn would be doing this regardless of the fashion statement.




To the food: Dr. Dave made the choice of the day with the steak and ale pie. These are bought in from a local supplier and this is no bad thing. Whoever had a hand in this pie knew his stuff. Deliciously melting steak in an rich flavored gravy served with schoolboy sides of mashed potato, broccoli and mushy peas. I had salmon & broccoli fishcakes which were just above average, however, the homemade tartare sauce and potato salad were superb. They had a 'young eaters' section from which Mia had a pizza and Ceci and mac & cheese; extra points for the local cheese on both!


A wonderful place, friendly staff, surroundings second to none. If you want a true English pub experience minus the yobs, drunks & chavs, you'd be hard pushed to top this one!



The Bell Inn, 10 St. James Street, Castle Hedingham, CO9 3EJ

Tuesday, July 22, 2008

Bolognese Pasta Bake



There's a credit crunch on in the UK. Interest rates blah blah, mortgages blah blah... I hate these buzz phrases as a rule so to break it down - stuff is expensive. No, REALLY expensive. Switch the $ for a £ and you've about got it. i.e. double it... ish... Self catering is the way to go and nothing feeds the masses like pasta and with time on my hands an authentic ragu was a possibility. Measurements are casual; its all to taste; get the basics in order and tinker with it as you will.



Recipe Ingredients for 6

2 lbs lean ground beef (I used Aberdeen Angus - arseholes to the credit crunch)
1 large onion finely chopped
1 clove garlic minced (not authentic but delicious)
1/2 cup of diced celery & carrot
1 large can of tomatoes
1/2 cup of tomato puree
salt & pepper
olive oil
(ragu purists may add a bay leaf or a spoon of milk at the end of cooking; perhaps a hint of nutmeg too)

2 cups of Bechamel / white Sauce (homemade or from a jar at a push)
1 cup grated parmesan
1 pack of pasta (I used spirals for their kid friendliness)

Recipe Directions
  1. Saute the onion & vegetables until softened in a tbs of olive oil then add the meat and cook until browned.
  2. Add the rest of the ingredients, give a good stir and cook at the merest bubble for 3 hours or so stirring occasionally.
  3. Taste for seasoning and remove from heat.
  4. Make the white sauce in the usual way or cop out and add a jar of ragu cheese sauce or white sauce mix.
  5. Cook the pasta and drain. Mix into the Bolognese sauce and place in a large oven proof dish.
  6. Pour over the white sauce and top with copious amounts of cheese and bake at 350 degrees for about 15 minutes until cheese is bubbling.

Thursday, July 17, 2008

Frankie & Benny's, Romford













For all my pontificating about the superiority of English Chinese food, pie & mash and great sausages; there's one area in which my adopted home town of Jupiter, Florida reigns supreme. That would be the high street chain restaurant. I can go to any of the biggies, Chilis, TGI's, Applebees, Duffy's etc., with the whole family and eat without fear of bankruptcy, food poisoning or post dinner hunger pangs. I can choose from a vast menu and know with some degree of confidence that whatever comes out of the kitchen will be edible. It may not be perfect but it'll do the job. None of these provisos apply here. Welcome to the chain restaurant experience in Romford. Welcome to Frankie & Benny's.


There aren't so many 'sit down' places to eat in Romford. There are non-kid friendly pubs, a tapas bar and of course a golden arch but a middle of the road place for a family pitstop leaves you few choices. The menu covered all the basics - how could you go wrong with a 'New York Italian Bar Restaurant'? Pizza, pasta, burger... sounded good.



Heeding my own advice about chain restaurants, I went simple, a burger. Easy. Dr. Dave went with spaghetti & meatballs; smart choice I thought, even my 3 year old can make that. If there's anything a place like this should do well its simple meatballs and pasta. I can honestly say this was the worst burger I've ever had and I'm not too proud to eat a dogburger from a van in Romford market either so that's saying something! It was clearly frozen; there was nothing homemade about it; the texture was too fine, it was gritty with bone, it was not only a frozen burger, but a cheap one at that. The chips were below average and the whole thing was thrown together with zero care. Dr. Dave's meatballs were atrocious also. I wouldn't have been surprised to see Titleist written down one side they were that hard. They were also dry beyond belief, flavorless (unless red pepper and freezer burn count as flavor) and to add insult to injury the pasta was completely devoid of sauce. Mimi had a pizza and that was OK, probably the best thing about the place apart from the service which was provided by a very sweet and overworked girl. Oh and it was about $50 for 2 dishes and a kids pizza...



Frankie & Benny's is a great concept, the music is fun, the atmosphere is good but ultimately the food is an abomination and on this basis; FUGGETABOUDIT!

Wednesday, July 16, 2008

Toad in the Hole & Melted Onion Gravy



Not real toads of course; this dish is actually sausages baked in a Yorkshire putting batter and nothing to do with toads and holes at all. I guess that somewhere in history somebody decided that was its general appearance and named it such.


Obviously its not your typical summer eating but on a July day in London with the temperature only just nudging 70 degrees (from the wrong direction) it was a great choice, not to mention a family favorite. Right on cue the weather warmed up and we decamped to the garden. Typical!

Recipe (serves 4)


8 excellent quality sausages (think Wholefoods or Greenwise)

1 cup all purpose flour

1 cup milk

1 cup eggs

salt & pepper


for the Gravy

1 tbs butter

1 large onion

slug of red wine

1 tbs flour

1 tbs mustard

1 x carton beef stock


Recipe Directions



  1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

  2. Place sausages in an ovenproof baking dish and cook for 10 minutes.

  3. Whilst these are cooking, prepare the batter by pouring the flour into a bowl, make a well in the center and incorporate the eggs. Gradually add the milk and a pinch of salt & pepper. You can get creative here with herbs if you wish, especially if you're using a flavored sausage; e.g. add some fresh oregano for an Italian sausage etc.,

  4. Remove the dish from the oven and slowly pour the batter around the sausages. Return to the oven for a further 25 minutes or so until the magic happens and your batter starts scraping the roof of the oven. The batter will be risen, crispy around the edges and with a good squidge in the center.

Gravy



  1. Thinly slice one large onion and add to a pan with a tablespoon of butter and slowly melt over a medium pan until soft but not brown.

  2. Add the flour and stir until cooked followed by the wine, mustard & stock.

  3. Reduce until thick and syrupy.




Tuesday, July 15, 2008

Chinese Takeout, UK Style!





Nobody does Chinese food like the English. Certainly not my local in Jupiter, FL or any of the joints I've been in to NYC, Chinatown or otherwise. I'm bored of hearing how great New York Chinese food is. I've been there. I've had it. It ain't so great! If that's what you're used to then fine but English Chinese is a revelation. There's something about the fragrance, the intensity of flavor - no doubt achieved with a good dusting of the MSG shaker - that just can't be equalled in my opinion. You can keep your low sodium, steamed, non fried, non fun food; this is the real deal.

After a six month hiatus from this elusive nosh we ordered big; special fried rice, sweet & sour chicken balls, lemon chicken, pancake rolls, ribs, sesame prawn toasts & chicken chow mein with a spicy chicken chaser. Don't be fooled and look at the photos and think for a nano second that this looks like the stuff from your local in FL; appearances can be deceiving. This had flavor.


There's an old saying that half an hour after eating a hearty Chinese takeaway, you're craving another. I strongly dispute that. A decent antacid and a litre of water perhaps. There's a good reason I only crave this food at six monthly intervals - it takes you that long to rehydrate.